Press

Maarten van der Horst

Maarten van der Horst

SPECIAL PROJECTS & COLLABORATIONS

Maarten van der Horst is a Designer, Creative Director, Brand Consultant and Visual Artist.

In addition to designs under his eponymous label, clients include; Acne Studios, Topshop, Diesel, Casio G Shock and SHOWstudio.

He joins DECEMBER to collaborate on special projects and is available upon request for commissions and consultancy.

Born in the Netherlands, Maarten has trained at the renowned Artez institute of the Arts, where he joins esteemed alumni Viktor & Rolf, he also gained experience at the Chloé atelier during his degree. His vibrant and joyous hand painted BA collection showed his developing signature for highly personal statements using D-I-Y techniques.

Maarten van der Horst went on to develop his aesthetic on the prestigious Central St Martins MA Womenswear course under Louise Wilson. His AW11 collection debuted at LFW and was met with critical acclaim from editors and buyers, Van der Horst’s designs are technically advanced yet highly wearable, as they exude a light hearted, joyful elegance without neglecting craftsmanship. The collection channeled transvestism and escapism through its marrying of intricately embroidered, second-hand Nylon petticoats with Hawaiian shirts, Capri trousers and Bermuda shorts, creating a John Waters-inspired wardrobe.

Maarten was selected by Lulu Kennedy to show his womenswear under Fashion East for SS12, AW12, SS13 and followed with a menswear presentation for AW13. He has since developed several capsule collections bearing his signature for Topshop, collaborating on the Art Direction and casting for the campaign. For AW13 MVDH was awarded NEWGEN sponsorship for both women’s and menswear where he presented his celebrated designs and showed an irreverent take on band t-shirts which form the inspiration for his logo.

SWEAR

London footwear label SWEAR was founded in 2001 by young entrepreneur José Neves, cited by The Business Of Fashion as one of the leading 500 global fashion influencers.

SWEAR has now become one of the most ubiquitous and iconic footwear brands from London, synonymous with the casual hybrid shoe, the collections explores playful silhouettes realised in superior materials and using traditional craftsmanship.

SWEAR is one of SIX London’s brands, a London-based shoe studio that incorporates a contemporary brand’s portfolio including; bStore, Opening Ceremony, Markus Lupfer, Toga Pulla, and Thakoon Addition.

buddy by SWEAR

For AW15 SWEAR have collaborated with young Japanese shoe designer Tetsuya Ilzuka, the founder and designer behind cult minimalist brand buddy. Built with the concept of ‘make happy’ slogan, for the designer has taken inspiration from the the man’s best friend and buddy, dog. The quirky design denotes the aesthetic of buddy is inspired by the different shapes of popular pet dogs, thus morphing into key styles such as German Shepherd, Sheltie, Bull Terrier, Corgi.

AW15 represents the perfect opportunity for SWEAR to collaborate with its buddy shoe partner, giving a unique spin with London-inspired best friend dogs: Poodle, Bassett Hound, and Doberman collection. With its fresh approach of story telling, buddy by SWEAR captivates imagination and playfulness through its quirky concept, design and communication.

Claire Barrow

Claire Barrow presents her Autumn/Winter 2015-16 collection ‘High Flyers’, her third sponsored by NEWGEN.

This season sees the designer take elementary influences from her relationship with life in London, and the conflicts that come from it.

The spirit of the collection derives from Barrow’s reflection on the cultural and political landscape of London, which has so rapidly changed within the last few years. London, once a mousetrap for young, inspired people, is now compromised. It has left her to speculate what, and where, the place is for the youth of today.

In contrast, Claire has also taken influence from the daily life of city workers and power women within the corporate workplace. With responsibility comes a yearning for freedom and youth, which is insinuated through her presentation: each model is blown by a fan. Barrow’s intention for the space was to create a hybrid between the indoor workplace and a free, outdoor environment.

Barrow’s Autumn/Winter 2015-16 colour palette, in addition to her signature monochromatic tone, consists of magenta, red, ochre, dark greens and light sky blue. Meanwhile, the collection showcases all-natural fabrics, including silk, cotton, leather and wool, with accents of fur and knitwear. She has remained loyal to her core aesthetic, with a prominent emphasis on print, which, for this season mostly silk screen-printed.

Top heavy silhouettes form the basis of the collection; these are accessorized with large hats, scarves and ballet flat office shoes. The eye is drawn to oversized coats in leather and wool, leather trousers, sheepskin jackets, finished with the likes of wide sleeves and elasticated and laced-up details.

The designer has also created trompe l’oeil earrings from transparent perspex in collaboration with jewellery band, Tatty Devine to illustrate the effect of a silk scarf blowing in the wind.
Her design ethos of ‘do-it-yourself’ is both culturally and politically engaging, acting as a visual reflection of the evolution of British subculture.

Barrow made her London Fashion Week debut with Fashion East for Spring/Summer 2013, and after completing three seasons, was then picked to showcase her work with NEWGEN. Autumn/Winter 2015-16 is her first presentation with NEWGEN, after two seasons of showcasing her collections in the exhibition space at Somerset House.

Bracken

BRACKEN was founded in 2013 by Joseph Nigoghossian, originally conceived as a unisex ready to wear label BRACKEN has now developed into a luxury ‘tomboy’ brand.

The RTW line has a strong focus on universal and unisex garments, with luxury finishing. BRACKEN offers designs where the traditions of seasonal, occasional and gender based dressing are fading.

BRACKEN AW15 looks to various interpretations of a British foraging theme, the main print motif and inspired by still life paintings by Dutch painter Jan Weenix, whose work centered around themes of hunting scenes and dead game. For Nigoghossian the forms of the game felt some how abstracted, represented somewhere between death and abundance VS sustenance, the still life inspiring the pheasant feather embellished Lady Amhurst jacket.

The nature of foraging drew reference to mushroom picking a favourite autumn rite of passage for Nigoghossian, again the mushroom embodied the symbol of death and sustenance, and a reminder of his childhood growing up in the British countryside.

A pervasive theme for BRACKEN remains skateboarding, a golden era for Joseph that generally informs the whole aesthetic of the brand. In this instance notable references were Neil Blenders and Mark gonzales, other references span from wood block prints, and folk art. Bringing an asemic element to the brand Joseph has been working mainly with tipex for drawing and writing, which the prints are derived from.

Bias cut dresses depict the essence of the BRACKEN aesthetic, laidback chic and nonchalant, leather continues to form a continued theme of the brand, progressing the modular story from the accessories. A new cap is a 7 panel neoprene cap, and an evolved series of Joseph’s signature bra bags. BRACKEN is stocked at PRIMITIVE in the UK.

COTTWEILER

COTTWEILER is a luxury British menswear label that responds instinctively to its social environment.

Forward thinking design and manufacturing is combined with an aspirational quality to form a relevant concept led menswear label.

This season COTTWEILER immerses itself inside a posthuman environment, merging the natural with the man-made to create a world surrounded by contradictory aesthetics.

Lightweight, breathable pieces are combined with high-stretch quilting and Teflon coated cotton mid-layers. Function is fused with familiarity through the use of mohair knits and showerproof pyjama styles, re-interpreting a garment’s original purpose, but giving the wearer comfort through nostalgia. Predetermined fold lines are stitched into place, emphasising our need for order.

Formal garments in liquid finish fabrics are realised through traditional weaving techniques using mixes of natural and synthetic fibres highlighted by elements of light, water and reflection.

COTTWEILER is available at Opening Ceremony New York, Dover Street Market New York, GR8 Tokyo, Primitive London, Substance LA, V Files New York, Tates Zurich and Wildstyle L.A, COTTWEILER has recently been featured in The Cut NY, Metal, Vogue Italia, Dazed & Confused, i-D, and WAD magazine to mention a few.

Haizhen Wang

Haizhen Wang

For AW14 Haizhen Wang builds on his signature aesthetic which is critically acclaimed for it’s precise tailoring, immaculate craftsmanship and couture finishing. Haizhen cites cultural feminism, philosophy theory and modern architecture as influence in his designs.

The Haizhen Wang AW14 collection plays with contrast, juxtaposing light and shadow. The collection research began with a haunting photograph of a girl on her knees, taken from behind, the image shows dots of shadow cast along her spine. This led to an exploration of the body frame, specifically the spine as the core of the whole body.

The juxtaposition of dark and light plays tribute to Haizhen’s sophisticated feminism, here executed with a polished edge, portraying a strong female character who carries the tailored looks with confidence.

The monochromatic palette provides the perfect backdrop for Haizhen’s rich textural exploration. Signature outerwear is realised in leather with herringbone and houndstooth accents, while Haizhen provides a modern update on the leather pant with a slouchy silhouette. Bespoke macramé neckpieces, and Haizhen’s signature leather gloves add a ladylike insouciance to the collection, while pointed boots offer a redux on the iconic twist heeled styles from SS14.

For SS14 Haizhen Wang is stocked in; Con De Jone – Hong Kong, Meimei – Chengdu, TNC – Chengdu, Dong Liang – Shanghai/Beijing, Catie Lo – Shanghai, Serious- Guangzhou, One Fifteen – Taiwan, Number 4 – Kuwait, Desert son of Santa – United States, Morgan Kylee – United States.

Daniel Pollitt

“Great works are performed not by strength but by perseverance.” – Samuel Johnson

The answers we seek are never found at home.
And so, we move away in search of a new beginning, to a new place perhaps, to find a sense of belonging, to prove our sense of worth.

The urge to migrate towards bright lights does not always lead to illumination. Darkness breeds a permeating clarity, which presents us with what we already knew.
Our journeys are diverse in the search for enlightenment; the path to our objectives becomes indistinct; yet we persist.

The everyday, beyond all, is the greatest work.

Although AW15 might appeal to the strong in spirit, its inspiration is the everyday. The metropolis built on foundations of illusory dreams and idealistic aspirations engulfs ones initial optimism.

Predominantly black and white AW15 demonstrates my preoccupation with returning to something strong and defined.

Pieces such as the Nylon paneled bomber jackets adorned with taped D-rings and Zip pocketed low slung shorts embody endurance. There is an athletic and physical sense to the pieces, I wanted to create flexible garments that allowed ease of movement, using lighter- weight fabrics such as nylon.

Other inspirations came from Rucksack strap detailing such as air mesh fabric- reformed as body harnesses; which further references my intrigue with survival and strength. The intention behind the fragmented pieces such as the nylon bomber sleeves and the slash back crop tops were to create partial- garments, outfits you could assemble and build up in layers.

Liam Hodges

Here for his final show with MAN, and on the grand occasion of their 10th birthday no less, returns Kent boy and Westminster/ RCA graduate Liam Hodges. Back once again and on song for the swan song.

The theme this season is Pirate radio, specifically the idea that a bunch of guys decided to grab a few aerials, jimmy their way into an abandoned building and beam out the kind of community radio that’d bring a tear to the eye of an OG like Tony Blackburn. As emerge every generation, these are the geeky, obsessive young men who relate to one another and their kindred, through a code of nods and winks (keep an eye out for Liam’s own graffiti binary coded camouflage weave). The spirit of that DIY, Blackburn gallivanting is imbued across the collection, in the form of climbing harnesses; bum bags and buckles requisitioned off seat belts. This season the focus is on textures and graphics.

It’s Spring/ Summer so our fine young men are broadcasting to the kids playing football in the park, and the collection reflects that mood with the 90s throwback jacquard football kit. Other rarefied details and weaves include the studio wall backdrop woven photographically into fabrics, military detailing on combats, jumpers and vests, the sharp colour palette of black, white, teal and electric blue and, so nice we’ll mention it twice, the jacquard. Get a good look at that jacquard, bleeding over the skin as rave camouflage. The nods and winks are further brought home through our lads’ choice of hairstyles and branded ID tag jewellery (Jewellery props go out to Slim Barrett).

ZYANYA KEIZER

ZYANYA KEIZER is concerned with the balance between art and fashion and sees her work as an expression of fantasy and an escape from everyday life.

Beginning her training at Central St Martins ZYANYA KEIZER later travelled to Antwerp to further her career before launching her own label in Amsterdam, having previously trained with revolutionary couturier Iris Van Herpen.

A recurring inspiration in ZYANYA KEIZER’S work is nature and the effortless yet complicated beauty it offers. Juxtaposing elements and fractious aspects of the natural world are evolved often to an ethereal quality, femininity with an edge.

Blending the hard with soft, and light with dark, ZYANYA KEIZER experiments with unconventional materials and silhouettes to explore the organic shapes of the human body, with heavily embellished garments and couture finishing.