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Bracken

BRACKEN was founded in 2013 by Joseph Nigoghossian, originally conceived as a unisex ready to wear label BRACKEN has now developed into a luxury ‘tomboy’ brand.

The RTW line has a strong focus on universal and unisex garments, with luxury finishing. BRACKEN offers designs where the traditions of seasonal, occasional and gender based dressing are fading.

BRACKEN AW15 looks to various interpretations of a British foraging theme, the main print motif and inspired by still life paintings by Dutch painter Jan Weenix, whose work centered around themes of hunting scenes and dead game. For Nigoghossian the forms of the game felt some how abstracted, represented somewhere between death and abundance VS sustenance, the still life inspiring the pheasant feather embellished Lady Amhurst jacket.

The nature of foraging drew reference to mushroom picking a favourite autumn rite of passage for Nigoghossian, again the mushroom embodied the symbol of death and sustenance, and a reminder of his childhood growing up in the British countryside.

A pervasive theme for BRACKEN remains skateboarding, a golden era for Joseph that generally informs the whole aesthetic of the brand. In this instance notable references were Neil Blenders and Mark gonzales, other references span from wood block prints, and folk art. Bringing an asemic element to the brand Joseph has been working mainly with tipex for drawing and writing, which the prints are derived from.

Bias cut dresses depict the essence of the BRACKEN aesthetic, laidback chic and nonchalant, leather continues to form a continued theme of the brand, progressing the modular story from the accessories. A new cap is a 7 panel neoprene cap, and an evolved series of Joseph’s signature bra bags. BRACKEN is stocked at PRIMITIVE in the UK.

COTTWEILER

COTTWEILER is a luxury British menswear label that responds instinctively to its social environment.

Forward thinking design and manufacturing is combined with an aspirational quality to form a relevant concept led menswear label.

This season COTTWEILER immerses itself inside a posthuman environment, merging the natural with the man-made to create a world surrounded by contradictory aesthetics.

Lightweight, breathable pieces are combined with high-stretch quilting and Teflon coated cotton mid-layers. Function is fused with familiarity through the use of mohair knits and showerproof pyjama styles, re-interpreting a garment’s original purpose, but giving the wearer comfort through nostalgia. Predetermined fold lines are stitched into place, emphasising our need for order.

Formal garments in liquid finish fabrics are realised through traditional weaving techniques using mixes of natural and synthetic fibres highlighted by elements of light, water and reflection.

COTTWEILER is available at Opening Ceremony New York, Dover Street Market New York, GR8 Tokyo, Primitive London, Substance LA, V Files New York, Tates Zurich and Wildstyle L.A, COTTWEILER has recently been featured in The Cut NY, Metal, Vogue Italia, Dazed & Confused, i-D, and WAD magazine to mention a few.

Haizhen Wang

Haizhen Wang

For AW14 Haizhen Wang builds on his signature aesthetic which is critically acclaimed for it’s precise tailoring, immaculate craftsmanship and couture finishing. Haizhen cites cultural feminism, philosophy theory and modern architecture as influence in his designs.

The Haizhen Wang AW14 collection plays with contrast, juxtaposing light and shadow. The collection research began with a haunting photograph of a girl on her knees, taken from behind, the image shows dots of shadow cast along her spine. This led to an exploration of the body frame, specifically the spine as the core of the whole body.

The juxtaposition of dark and light plays tribute to Haizhen’s sophisticated feminism, here executed with a polished edge, portraying a strong female character who carries the tailored looks with confidence.

The monochromatic palette provides the perfect backdrop for Haizhen’s rich textural exploration. Signature outerwear is realised in leather with herringbone and houndstooth accents, while Haizhen provides a modern update on the leather pant with a slouchy silhouette. Bespoke macramé neckpieces, and Haizhen’s signature leather gloves add a ladylike insouciance to the collection, while pointed boots offer a redux on the iconic twist heeled styles from SS14.

For SS14 Haizhen Wang is stocked in; Con De Jone – Hong Kong, Meimei – Chengdu, TNC – Chengdu, Dong Liang – Shanghai/Beijing, Catie Lo – Shanghai, Serious- Guangzhou, One Fifteen – Taiwan, Number 4 – Kuwait, Desert son of Santa – United States, Morgan Kylee – United States.

Daniel Pollitt

“Great works are performed not by strength but by perseverance.” – Samuel Johnson

The answers we seek are never found at home.
And so, we move away in search of a new beginning, to a new place perhaps, to find a sense of belonging, to prove our sense of worth.

The urge to migrate towards bright lights does not always lead to illumination. Darkness breeds a permeating clarity, which presents us with what we already knew.
Our journeys are diverse in the search for enlightenment; the path to our objectives becomes indistinct; yet we persist.

The everyday, beyond all, is the greatest work.

Although AW15 might appeal to the strong in spirit, its inspiration is the everyday. The metropolis built on foundations of illusory dreams and idealistic aspirations engulfs ones initial optimism.

Predominantly black and white AW15 demonstrates my preoccupation with returning to something strong and defined.

Pieces such as the Nylon paneled bomber jackets adorned with taped D-rings and Zip pocketed low slung shorts embody endurance. There is an athletic and physical sense to the pieces, I wanted to create flexible garments that allowed ease of movement, using lighter- weight fabrics such as nylon.

Other inspirations came from Rucksack strap detailing such as air mesh fabric- reformed as body harnesses; which further references my intrigue with survival and strength. The intention behind the fragmented pieces such as the nylon bomber sleeves and the slash back crop tops were to create partial- garments, outfits you could assemble and build up in layers.

Liam Hodges

Here for his final show with MAN, and on the grand occasion of their 10th birthday no less, returns Kent boy and Westminster/ RCA graduate Liam Hodges. Back once again and on song for the swan song.

The theme this season is Pirate radio, specifically the idea that a bunch of guys decided to grab a few aerials, jimmy their way into an abandoned building and beam out the kind of community radio that’d bring a tear to the eye of an OG like Tony Blackburn. As emerge every generation, these are the geeky, obsessive young men who relate to one another and their kindred, through a code of nods and winks (keep an eye out for Liam’s own graffiti binary coded camouflage weave). The spirit of that DIY, Blackburn gallivanting is imbued across the collection, in the form of climbing harnesses; bum bags and buckles requisitioned off seat belts. This season the focus is on textures and graphics.

It’s Spring/ Summer so our fine young men are broadcasting to the kids playing football in the park, and the collection reflects that mood with the 90s throwback jacquard football kit. Other rarefied details and weaves include the studio wall backdrop woven photographically into fabrics, military detailing on combats, jumpers and vests, the sharp colour palette of black, white, teal and electric blue and, so nice we’ll mention it twice, the jacquard. Get a good look at that jacquard, bleeding over the skin as rave camouflage. The nods and winks are further brought home through our lads’ choice of hairstyles and branded ID tag jewellery (Jewellery props go out to Slim Barrett).

ZYANYA KEIZER

ZYANYA KEIZER is concerned with the balance between art and fashion and sees her work as an expression of fantasy and an escape from everyday life.

Beginning her training at Central St Martins ZYANYA KEIZER later travelled to Antwerp to further her career before launching her own label in Amsterdam, having previously trained with revolutionary couturier Iris Van Herpen.

A recurring inspiration in ZYANYA KEIZER’S work is nature and the effortless yet complicated beauty it offers. Juxtaposing elements and fractious aspects of the natural world are evolved often to an ethereal quality, femininity with an edge.

Blending the hard with soft, and light with dark, ZYANYA KEIZER experiments with unconventional materials and silhouettes to explore the organic shapes of the human body, with heavily embellished garments and couture finishing.