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HAAL

Stockholm based clothing and eyewear label HAAL was founded by Anders Haal in 2013, the line embraces a carefree and casual approach to dressing.

The HAAL stance to wardrobe is about lifestyle as opposed to seasonal collections. HAAL is supported by progressive retailers such as LN­CC and Opening Ceremony and has been a featured participant in Selfridges special project Agender.

The HAAL collection contains of everyday staples, keeping their comfort and utility in the format of a wardrobe for the loners and for the masses.

As a brand HAAL is concerned with texture and surface design. SS16 concentrates on traditional lifestyle brand vibes and Anglo heritage coding inform the aesthetic of the collection: Tennis skirts, polo shirts, V-neck pullover shapes, trench coats and khaki styles, rendered via cut out argyle checks, Intarsia knits, slashed cable knits and embroidered emblems.

The collection also consists of denim styles elongated with ribbing as well as see through denim knits. Further, Anders experiments with crystal pleating in moiré zebra, tree bark pleating and crushed jersey with familiar prints; “when the hated turned into heroes”, Loner, Arena world tour, iconic Scarface motifs.

TNBP

Founded in 2009 TNBP has its roots in a music collective formed at this time, hence Tuesday Night Band Practice. TNBP showcased the SS16 collection during London Fashion Week with a static presentation and live band practice.

TNBP SS16 takes inspiration from the 1973 French science fiction animation ‘La Planète Sauvage’ or ‘Fantastic Planet’ by René Laloux, known for its surreal and psychedelic imagery. In light of this, SS16 pays homage to both earthy and otherworldly elements: Textured, natural fabrics including crinkled cotton stripes, lightweight jerseys, rayon slubs, wool cashmere mixed knitwear and hand woven traditional Indonesian Ikat are juxtaposed with modern repeat printed neoprene, technical mesh stripe and crushed metallic nylons.

The signature TNBP colour palette of black is strengthened by patchy, pigment dyed greys reminiscent of the near future world, realised in the iconic stop-motion film.

Contrasting elements continue throughout the collection with TNBP’s signature mixed fabric garments. Torn/distressed denims appear with leather patches and repeat stitch repair, styled with block printed t-shirts, and a neoprene and leather mixed evening dress.

Distressed leathers, butter soft suede and thick traditional motorcycle leathers incorporated with medieval armor are details inspired by works on exhibition at the Royal Armouries, London. Neoprene features and waterproof zippers add to the futuristic feel.

Robin and Mark launched the label with the initial vision of the brand to fuse their passion for music with their love for design. Strong illustration and a heritage in graphic design lead the way for the iconic T-shirt designs the label is renowned for, aesthetically the brand has evolved to offer full womens and mens collections, luxury leather outerwear and accessories, with attention to finishing and hand detailed elements.

The RTW line TNBP is stocked internationally including; Serpentine, Toronto Canada, Anma, Jeddah Saudi Arabia, Le Gray, Riyadh Saudi Arabia, Traffic, Los Angeles & Dallas United States, By Marie, Marseille France, Casting, Montpellier France, Springsioux, Paris France, Bambi & Faline, Nagoya Japan, John Bull, Tokyo Japan, Radd Lounge, Tokyo Japan, Cone De Jone, Hong Kong, LJ Fashion, Hong Kong, Apartment, Berlin Germany Kion, Frankfurt Germany, Luisa Via Roma, Florence Italy.

AMMERMAN SCHLÖSBERG

AMMERMAN SCHLÖSBERG is the NYC based luxury women’s brand, founded by Elizabeth Ammerman and Eric Schlösberg, who developed the line after meeting at seminal fashion store Seven in New York.

The RTW label comprises a feminine modern feminine aesthetic, for sexy powerful and strong women with a little bit of a dark side. Heavily influenced by costume and cosplay, AMMERMAN and SCHLÖSBERG create clothes balanced with layers of fantasy, undertones of magic, fetishism executed with a dark femininity; simultaneously introducing a thread of kitschy humor and girly playfulness.

AMMERMAN SCHLÖSBERG showed their AW15 Furry Hospital collection as part of MADE during New York fashion Week. The AMMERMAN SCHLÖSBERG muse this season has a darker side to her, referencing furry fandom, the psych ward at a haunted hospital, traditional Japanese costume, and the Guro Lolita subculture.

The lookbook which launched exclusively with Dazed Digital set out to explore the angsty goth aspect of the collection, shot in a high school Elizabeth explained to Dazed; “ Similar to hospitals, schools have square rigid institutional control that you either conform to or break the rules. My boyfriend, who shoots all of our lookbooks, went into a two day wormhole of school administration, phone calls for permits and eventually the Principal he had been speaking to just snuck us in after hours.”

PERCY LAU

PERCY LAU is the eponymous London/Hong Kong based premium luxury accessories line founded following her training at Central St Martins.

The accessories line comprises a modern aesthetic with highly functional luxurious finishing. Displaying an affluence in the Sciences PERCY LAU often implements scientific theories into her work such as the refraction theories she used for her glasses which appear to cut the line of sight.

Robert Wun

Robert Wun is luxury fashion label, aimed at creating ingenious garments with sophisticated vision, to inspire independent individuals with original beliefs.

The chaotic interplay between Nature and artificial forms is the centre of the design ethos: through resourcing in the novelty of nature and the revolutionary forms of the artificial world.

Robert Wun believes in such contradictions – promising ideas generated through the process of complexity. Dictating the new ‘futuristic’ through innovative manufacturing yet with uncompromising attention to traditional values; creating harmony by combining enlightening ideas with sophisticated craftsmanship, bringing a new dimension to luxury garments and also to the young London fashion industry.

A D Y N

ADYN is the UK based label launched in 2013 by Matthew, Ash & Alpha.

An acronym of androgynous, the trio began making clothes with their own sartorial tastes in mind and soon grew a cult following for their designs online. Realised in a monochromatic palette, the line embraces clean minimal styling with understated luxury finishes for updates on wardrobe basics.

Fusing an innate understanding of the kind of clothes they’d personally want to wear and the collective’s unusual heritage, which spans a broad range of disciplines including finance, retail, print and furniture design, ADYN comprises a seasonless non gender approach to dressing.

For AW14 ADYN present a collection of covetable hero pieces, exploring an elongated silhouette, intricate panelling and a play on textures. Form fitting bombers and crombie style jackets in techno fabrications are paired with leather moto pants and their luxe jersey separates; a modern London approach to their European and US minimalist contemporaries.

ADYN is stocked across Europe, Asia and the US alongside their successful online retail platform.

Maarten van der Horst

Maarten van der Horst

SPECIAL PROJECTS & COLLABORATIONS

Maarten van der Horst is a Designer, Creative Director, Brand Consultant and Visual Artist.

In addition to designs under his eponymous label, clients include; Acne Studios, Topshop, Diesel, Casio G Shock and SHOWstudio.

He joins DECEMBER to collaborate on special projects and is available upon request for commissions and consultancy.

Born in the Netherlands, Maarten has trained at the renowned Artez institute of the Arts, where he joins esteemed alumni Viktor & Rolf, he also gained experience at the Chloé atelier during his degree. His vibrant and joyous hand painted BA collection showed his developing signature for highly personal statements using D-I-Y techniques.

Maarten van der Horst went on to develop his aesthetic on the prestigious Central St Martins MA Womenswear course under Louise Wilson. His AW11 collection debuted at LFW and was met with critical acclaim from editors and buyers, Van der Horst’s designs are technically advanced yet highly wearable, as they exude a light hearted, joyful elegance without neglecting craftsmanship. The collection channeled transvestism and escapism through its marrying of intricately embroidered, second-hand Nylon petticoats with Hawaiian shirts, Capri trousers and Bermuda shorts, creating a John Waters-inspired wardrobe.

Maarten was selected by Lulu Kennedy to show his womenswear under Fashion East for SS12, AW12, SS13 and followed with a menswear presentation for AW13. He has since developed several capsule collections bearing his signature for Topshop, collaborating on the Art Direction and casting for the campaign. For AW13 MVDH was awarded NEWGEN sponsorship for both women’s and menswear where he presented his celebrated designs and showed an irreverent take on band t-shirts which form the inspiration for his logo.

SWEAR

London footwear label SWEAR was founded in 2001 by young entrepreneur José Neves, cited by The Business Of Fashion as one of the leading 500 global fashion influencers.

SWEAR has now become one of the most ubiquitous and iconic footwear brands from London, synonymous with the casual hybrid shoe, the collections explores playful silhouettes realised in superior materials and using traditional craftsmanship.

SWEAR is one of SIX London’s brands, a London-based shoe studio that incorporates a contemporary brand’s portfolio including; bStore, Opening Ceremony, Markus Lupfer, Toga Pulla, and Thakoon Addition.

buddy by SWEAR

For AW15 SWEAR have collaborated with young Japanese shoe designer Tetsuya Ilzuka, the founder and designer behind cult minimalist brand buddy. Built with the concept of ‘make happy’ slogan, for the designer has taken inspiration from the the man’s best friend and buddy, dog. The quirky design denotes the aesthetic of buddy is inspired by the different shapes of popular pet dogs, thus morphing into key styles such as German Shepherd, Sheltie, Bull Terrier, Corgi.

AW15 represents the perfect opportunity for SWEAR to collaborate with its buddy shoe partner, giving a unique spin with London-inspired best friend dogs: Poodle, Bassett Hound, and Doberman collection. With its fresh approach of story telling, buddy by SWEAR captivates imagination and playfulness through its quirky concept, design and communication.

Claire Barrow

Claire Barrow presents her Autumn/Winter 2015-16 collection ‘High Flyers’, her third sponsored by NEWGEN.

This season sees the designer take elementary influences from her relationship with life in London, and the conflicts that come from it.

The spirit of the collection derives from Barrow’s reflection on the cultural and political landscape of London, which has so rapidly changed within the last few years. London, once a mousetrap for young, inspired people, is now compromised. It has left her to speculate what, and where, the place is for the youth of today.

In contrast, Claire has also taken influence from the daily life of city workers and power women within the corporate workplace. With responsibility comes a yearning for freedom and youth, which is insinuated through her presentation: each model is blown by a fan. Barrow’s intention for the space was to create a hybrid between the indoor workplace and a free, outdoor environment.

Barrow’s Autumn/Winter 2015-16 colour palette, in addition to her signature monochromatic tone, consists of magenta, red, ochre, dark greens and light sky blue. Meanwhile, the collection showcases all-natural fabrics, including silk, cotton, leather and wool, with accents of fur and knitwear. She has remained loyal to her core aesthetic, with a prominent emphasis on print, which, for this season mostly silk screen-printed.

Top heavy silhouettes form the basis of the collection; these are accessorized with large hats, scarves and ballet flat office shoes. The eye is drawn to oversized coats in leather and wool, leather trousers, sheepskin jackets, finished with the likes of wide sleeves and elasticated and laced-up details.

The designer has also created trompe l’oeil earrings from transparent perspex in collaboration with jewellery band, Tatty Devine to illustrate the effect of a silk scarf blowing in the wind.
Her design ethos of ‘do-it-yourself’ is both culturally and politically engaging, acting as a visual reflection of the evolution of British subculture.

Barrow made her London Fashion Week debut with Fashion East for Spring/Summer 2013, and after completing three seasons, was then picked to showcase her work with NEWGEN. Autumn/Winter 2015-16 is her first presentation with NEWGEN, after two seasons of showcasing her collections in the exhibition space at Somerset House.