Category


Brands

PAULA KNORR

Originally hailing from Frankfurt Paula lives and works in London. A graduate of MA RCA Paula Knorr shortly won the ITS Fashion Award in July 2015 in Trieste Italy.

‘Her Wet Skin’ the debut collection from Paula Knorr explores and dissects conventions of femininity, the collection was governed by a personal exploration of 25 women and their attitudes and understanding of womanhood. The studies pay tribute to their thoughts, wishes and anxieties around womanhood and femininity. About their inner feminist struggle and the circumstances which make them think, feel, act like the women they want to be. To translate the answers into visuals, Paula recreated these true feminine heartstrings into 25 different videos, which play with the interaction between artificial materials and nude body.

Paula Knorr has created luxury RTW pieces that respect and fulfil the thoughts of her muses; creating a new poetic womenswear identity: Loose metallic scraps are sliding down matte skin-like dresses. Frozen in motion, they create a contrast between artificial lightness and sensual velvety skin. Glossy fabric pieces are moulded around the woman´s shape, creating a relief of the body, surreal fixed in place by a lycra backside.

Paula Knorr has already won the support of publications including; Vogue Italia, Vogue, New York Times, and Dazed & Confused.

NOSOMNIA

NOSOMNIA is a Copenhagen based menswear brand founded in 2015.

The mission is to dress mature men,while embracing a nostalgic touch of youth. The label aimed to develop straightforward but progressive pieces. To have the wearer truly situated at the angle of comfort and modernity.

The collections speak to the DNA of the brand: quality, function, and experimentation while elevating them to a contemporary space. Each item is created with thesevalues in mind.

NOSOMNIA’s Spring-Summer 2016 collection, “Angular”, consists of 11 exciting looks. The collection redefines classic uniforms with new forms and shapes implementing geometric principles into the design. With a minimalistic heritage the designers have tried to explore what is next to ‘nothingness’ – a space where aesthetic shapes and angles are added to the basics.

The Danish brand focus on details and quality by presenting basic streetwear cuts made from the finest materials and embellished with geometric detailing. The collection consists of an array of sweatshirts, tees, and jackets in a color palette of greens, navy blue, and black, detailed with angular stitching and prints for a ready-to-wear line that renews the essence of high-end.

SORCHA O'RAGHALLAIGH

Sorcha O’Raghallaigh’s latest collection ‘Pearls Before Swine’ took inspiration from the Pearly Kings and Queens of East London.

The collection was inspired by the detailed and exuberant attire of the Pearlies from the Victorian era to the modern day and this is notably reflected within the embellishments of O’Raghallaigh’s collection. Each garment takes inspiration from the Pearlies through either three-dimensional floral motifs or flat repetitive button embellishments.

The silhouettes of O’Raghallaigh’s garments are relaxed and echo loosely the style worn by those in East Asia. The structured oversized kimonos coupled with wide legged trousers juxtaposes the feminine and fragile tulle button embellished dresses, tops, and veils. The colour palette is predominantly monochrome and inspired by the classic Pearly Kings and Queens colour scheme. However, O’Raghallaigh incorporated colour into two of her garments; the most striking being her cape. Every colour of the rainbow is integrated within the cape through acrylic buttons, which are hand sewn in the intricate designs and motifs so closely inspired by those of the Pearlies.

Alongside this collection, O’Raghallaigh designed three t-shirts, which take inspiration from her main collection. The hand-embellished texts presented in these t-shirts are inspired by the Pearlies use of text within their own suits.

O’Raghallaigh’s fascination with religion inspired the slogan’s taken from the prayer ‘Hail Mary’ and ‘Full of Grace’ in reference to Roman Catholic religion which inspired O’Raghallaigh to amalgamate the two together to inspire her own creations. Together with the slogan t-shirts, O’Raghallaigh designed t-shirts with floral motifs mimicking that of the patterns shown within her main collection. These are produced in black and white and are made from 100% cotton fabric.

MONOCHROME

MONOCHROME is a concept driven fashion label which integrates visual arts with fashion design, founded by Anya Kamarek and Hektor Kowalski.

Combining Anya’s training in innovative pattern cutting with Hektor’s background in visual arts and creative direction, the label’s collections mirror the unique and tailored aesthetic shared by Anya and Hektor, as well as their ambition to combine contemporary fashion with the various art forms that drive them.

A pervasive theme of the MONOCHROME label is a genderless utilitarian quality. Inspired by London life, MONOCHROME garments are made to function within an urban setting,with a focus on technical fabrications. Many of the pieces mimic geometric structures allowing not only an adaptable fit but also transformation into multi-purposeful uses. A signature palette of black and grey is seasonally updated exuding a minimal approach.

MONOCHROME reveal their latest SS16 collection:’PARAIBA’, a concept emphasising the technical process of fashion production from the selection of patterns, sizing, cutting, and specialised fabrics. Each garment is marked with individual symbols and each print is matched with a pattern creating a coded meaning.

The particular mood in this collection alludes to the existential notion that we live in a coded, numbered and classified world. At the same time, each MONOCHROME piece is intricately unique signified by a cryptogram signature, each one different. The designers, Anya Kamarek and Hektor Kowalski, hand made each print striving to create a stronger interconnection between consumer and creator in a world of mass production.

MONOCHROME is available at FRAGILE Osaka, SUBSTANCE LA, CARTEL Dubai, STIGHLORGAN & UNCONVENTIONAL UK, & VELVET Milan.

ITOKAWA FILM

Established in 2013 by Creative Directors Samuel Membery and James Ari King, together their individual backgrounds blend fashion, photography and image making.

Central to the style of the brand is an intercontinental futurism that looks to an illusory paradise.

ITOKAWA FILM is executed with minimal styling, hypercolour print separates and sci-fi elements, collections are made up of recognisable but displaced silhouettes, the clothes are cut and fabricated to capture a refined yet effortless style.

ITOKAWA FILM are supported by retailers including; CORNER COMME des GARÇONS and GR8 Tokyo, OPENING CEREMONY NY, and PRIMITIVE London.

HAAL

Stockholm based clothing and eyewear label HAAL was founded by Anders Haal in 2013, the line embraces a carefree and casual approach to dressing.

The HAAL stance to wardrobe is about lifestyle as opposed to seasonal collections. HAAL is supported by progressive retailers such as LN­CC and Opening Ceremony and has been a featured participant in Selfridges special project Agender.

The HAAL collection contains of everyday staples, keeping their comfort and utility in the format of a wardrobe for the loners and for the masses.

As a brand HAAL is concerned with texture and surface design. SS16 concentrates on traditional lifestyle brand vibes and Anglo heritage coding inform the aesthetic of the collection: Tennis skirts, polo shirts, V-neck pullover shapes, trench coats and khaki styles, rendered via cut out argyle checks, Intarsia knits, slashed cable knits and embroidered emblems.

The collection also consists of denim styles elongated with ribbing as well as see through denim knits. Further, Anders experiments with crystal pleating in moiré zebra, tree bark pleating and crushed jersey with familiar prints; “when the hated turned into heroes”, Loner, Arena world tour, iconic Scarface motifs.

TNBP

Founded in 2009 TNBP has its roots in a music collective formed at this time, hence Tuesday Night Band Practice. TNBP showcased the SS16 collection during London Fashion Week with a static presentation and live band practice.

TNBP SS16 takes inspiration from the 1973 French science fiction animation ‘La Planète Sauvage’ or ‘Fantastic Planet’ by René Laloux, known for its surreal and psychedelic imagery. In light of this, SS16 pays homage to both earthy and otherworldly elements: Textured, natural fabrics including crinkled cotton stripes, lightweight jerseys, rayon slubs, wool cashmere mixed knitwear and hand woven traditional Indonesian Ikat are juxtaposed with modern repeat printed neoprene, technical mesh stripe and crushed metallic nylons.

The signature TNBP colour palette of black is strengthened by patchy, pigment dyed greys reminiscent of the near future world, realised in the iconic stop-motion film.

Contrasting elements continue throughout the collection with TNBP’s signature mixed fabric garments. Torn/distressed denims appear with leather patches and repeat stitch repair, styled with block printed t-shirts, and a neoprene and leather mixed evening dress.

Distressed leathers, butter soft suede and thick traditional motorcycle leathers incorporated with medieval armor are details inspired by works on exhibition at the Royal Armouries, London. Neoprene features and waterproof zippers add to the futuristic feel.

Robin and Mark launched the label with the initial vision of the brand to fuse their passion for music with their love for design. Strong illustration and a heritage in graphic design lead the way for the iconic T-shirt designs the label is renowned for, aesthetically the brand has evolved to offer full womens and mens collections, luxury leather outerwear and accessories, with attention to finishing and hand detailed elements.

The RTW line TNBP is stocked internationally including; Serpentine, Toronto Canada, Anma, Jeddah Saudi Arabia, Le Gray, Riyadh Saudi Arabia, Traffic, Los Angeles & Dallas United States, By Marie, Marseille France, Casting, Montpellier France, Springsioux, Paris France, Bambi & Faline, Nagoya Japan, John Bull, Tokyo Japan, Radd Lounge, Tokyo Japan, Cone De Jone, Hong Kong, LJ Fashion, Hong Kong, Apartment, Berlin Germany Kion, Frankfurt Germany, Luisa Via Roma, Florence Italy.

AMMERMAN SCHLÖSBERG

AMMERMAN SCHLÖSBERG is the NYC based luxury women’s brand, founded by Elizabeth Ammerman and Eric Schlösberg, who developed the line after meeting at seminal fashion store Seven in New York.

The RTW label comprises a feminine modern feminine aesthetic, for sexy powerful and strong women with a little bit of a dark side. Heavily influenced by costume and cosplay, AMMERMAN and SCHLÖSBERG create clothes balanced with layers of fantasy, undertones of magic, fetishism executed with a dark femininity; simultaneously introducing a thread of kitschy humor and girly playfulness.

AMMERMAN SCHLÖSBERG showed their AW15 Furry Hospital collection as part of MADE during New York fashion Week. The AMMERMAN SCHLÖSBERG muse this season has a darker side to her, referencing furry fandom, the psych ward at a haunted hospital, traditional Japanese costume, and the Guro Lolita subculture.

The lookbook which launched exclusively with Dazed Digital set out to explore the angsty goth aspect of the collection, shot in a high school Elizabeth explained to Dazed; “ Similar to hospitals, schools have square rigid institutional control that you either conform to or break the rules. My boyfriend, who shoots all of our lookbooks, went into a two day wormhole of school administration, phone calls for permits and eventually the Principal he had been speaking to just snuck us in after hours.”

PERCY LAU

PERCY LAU is the eponymous London/Hong Kong based premium luxury accessories line founded following her training at Central St Martins.

The accessories line comprises a modern aesthetic with highly functional luxurious finishing. Displaying an affluence in the Sciences PERCY LAU often implements scientific theories into her work such as the refraction theories she used for her glasses which appear to cut the line of sight.

ASGER JUEL LARSEN

Where past collections have boasted brutal prints and unconventional silhouettes, Asger’s SS16 aesthetic takes a more relaxed route. Not to say it mutes impact or individualist, but more reflects his progression as a designer to show strength in subtlety.

The designer’s relationship with his craft is quite literally evoked, with a love letter inscribed across and into the collection. Whether on rubber injected patches or lettered into printed jumpers and T-shirts, this honesty is an affirmation of the unapologetic connection personal style holds to its wearer.

The tranquil scene is seen through ecstatic eyes, with new prints being introduced. One features a wild forest in neon green, caged under Asger’s diamond shaped wires and logo. This marks the return of fresh digital and screen-printing. Alongside these tropical tones are the inclusion of reflective greys, dusty finishes, and see through plastic; all of which cater for the futuristic effect Asger is known for.

The silhouette is consistently relaxed, even when tailoring is involved and at the forefront. Jumpers, tanks and T-shirts are loose, but are intended to be tucked into wide shorts or trousers. The waistbands boast structured fronts and elastic sportswear detail to the back, enabling the marriage of suave and sport tendencies. Aloha shirts make a comeback and are styled with an exposed chest in mind. The idea is that sex appeal isn’t pretentious, but more free spirited and honest, seeing as the setting is it in the middle of nowhere.

Seashore textures include rewashed jersey and denim, which achieves a rougher and organic feel. Sportier fabrics are extremely lightweight, from nylon to see-through plastic, something that’s embossed in snake and crocodile texture.

Relaxed rebellion and love is the promise of this collection, both honest and unexplored.